On Wednesday morning, I stood on the edge of an irregular oval of water, watching the midday heat blister the atmosphere. Slowly, the teak trees to the left of us seem to part ways, and five African elephants ambled towards us, through a curtain of lush green foliage.
The bright blue sky seemed to be resting on the backs of these enormous animals, and they swung their trunks (which can weigh up to 181kgs) gaily as if it weighed no more than a falcon’s feather.
Their dark brown eyes were boarded by eyelashes as long as pencils, and each toenail was a perfect semi-circle as if they were on their way back from a pedicure.
Trotting between the legs of the adults was a baby elephant, who hadn’t quite mastered the elegant lope of its elders. Thombi is a bundle of energy that ran around with his tail at a forty-five-degree angle and his trunk darting skywards as if he was trying to talk to the clouds.
Little Thombi was the first slide into a muddy water hole. In a few minutes, the other elephants seemed to disrobe their air of careless grace and cascaded into the glistening mud. A laugh burst from my chest as Coco, the oldest female, started scratching her head against a nearby tree. I realised that I had been holding my breath since the elephant arrived, utterly enthralled and intent on watching without disturbing. While they played, our guide Mike introduced us to them.
Coco was now lying on her side and trailing her trunk through the water. When she stood up, a loud slurping, suction sound danced through the air, similar to the sound made when you pull an overturned plastic cup out of water. She is the Mum of the sanctuary, Mike explained to us, taking care of each new orphan as if it were her own. Tendai was resting her trunk on her daughter, Thembi’s back while keeping a close eye on granddaughter Thombi, who was now sliding down the short slope on her bottom, utterly oblivious to our shouts of laughter. And towering over everyone was Jumbo. The largest bull I have ever laid eyes on, and Thombi’s father. He radiated authority over the gaggle of girls, looking protective and commanding respect. Eventually, they all clambered out and came over to inspect their visitors. Picture a square of dark chocolate topped by milk chocolate. That’s precisely how they emerged- bottom half gleaming and coated in sticky mud, top half dusty brown. The only clean part of Thombi was a patch on top of his spikey head and the tip of his trunk.
Each elephant instantly recognised their caretakers and sauntered towards them. Jumbo’s trunk floated towards my outstretched fingertips. The gentle brush left my hand damp and dirty and sent a shiver down my spine. We set off on our walk, and I couldn’t keep my eyes off them, even when my neck began to ache, and my ankles wobbled precariously over the rocky ground. Walking alongside an elephant is the most humbling feeling in the world. Their gentle gait is almost hypnotic, and their footprints are filled with intricate lines as if with every step that they take, they are leaving behind a map for others to follow. Gazing up at Jumbo, I saw an embodiment of Africa. He looked as though he had been carved from a granite boulder, veins ran across his broad, delicate ear like rivers through across the landscape. His hazel eyes seemed incomprehensibly intelligent, as though there was nothing you could tell him about Africa that he didn’t already know.
I walked beside these majestic animals, rocked in the cradle of the world, awe-struck and humbled. We strolled towards a running brook, where a buffalo stood immersed, cooling himself as a herd of impala pranced through the grass. A group of curious warthogs paraded around us as if guiding us on a tour of their beautiful world. While we explored alongside the elephant, Mike pointed out trees, animals, spoor and birds, each accompanied by an amusing anecdote. He was armed with a rifle because, as he reminded us, this was a National Park. It belonged to wild animals, we were just visiting. The gun would only be used to send a warning shot into the sky, and ward off dangerous predators.
We arrived back at The Wallow, and it was time to say goodbye. It had only been an hour in their presence, but a sense of sadness settled over us as we thanked them and stole a few last glances. We each with a large round imprint on our hearts and a looming visage stored in our memories.
There is undoubtedly nowhere else on earth like The Elephant Sanctuary and Orphanage. We spent the day uncovering some of the most admirable and unbelievable aspects of Africa. A sense of serenity never left us, but it was accompanied by moments of complete exhilaration. A trip to Africa wouldn’t be complete without this Elephant Encounter, and it is perhaps it is the best way to experience and understand Africa. If any animals were made to roam the earth, it must be the elephant. This gives you a unique chance to do it with them.
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